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cu283 asked:
Along some shorelines, why does the water simply rise and fall as the waves reach the shore rather than forming a surf zone?
BO
Along some shorelines, why does the water simply rise and fall as the waves reach the shore rather than forming a surf zone?
BO
Comments
Irv S on 21 September, 2008 at 3:00 am #
It has to do with the relative steepness of the shore,
and the period of the waves.
Long period waves won’t form surf at a steep shelving shore,
where a shallow shelf will cause them to break.
(Where they ‘break’ much of the energy is expended.
Where they don’t they are reflected.)
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